The Best of the Wet in the Dry- Gibb River Road

Looking back on the last few weeks all I can say is, many people have been affected by the unseasonal rains that hit the Kimberley in Western Australia. Well laid plans were constantly being rejigged so much so that our plans A, B and C had extended into “the Greek alphabet”. 

The chatter in every nook and cranny within the campgrounds was all about the Gibb River Road (GRR); road closures and conditions, likely openings and closures, river crossings and depths, and tales by those who drove through roads and crossed rivers after an extended period of staying put. 

The conversations from most, centred around whether to wait for the GRR to open and risk the Fitzroy River closing and then possibly face not being able to meet commitments such as international and interstate flights back home.

The decision to skiddadle down the Northern HWY from the east and cross the Fitzroy River just before it shut was fortunate for us, but not for others also making the dash east to west or vice versa.

Weeks ago, I thought our trip on the GRR would have to be rescheduled. That all changed in part, when our good fortune continued with the road opening west of the Barnett River.

And so we hit the GRR…

From the west, the  GRR is sealed to Lennard River. This is where we pulled over and aired down. The unsealed road was in very good condition and there were graders working on different sections. The most corrugated part was about 10 kms long just before the mechanical/ tyre repair place “ Over the Range Tyre Repair”.  We were towing a van and drove slowly along this stretch of road and had no issues.

We spent about a week exploring the western section of GRR. We stayed at Silent Grove, (WA Parks) and then Manning Gorge Campground; no need to pre book the latter, just rock up and pay at Barnett River Roadhouse. 

Having spoken to others at El Questro who had completed the entire GRR, the western side was according them well worth seeing because of the gorges. Be prepared to walk through scrub, wet creek and river crossings, dry river beds and lots of clambering over rocks. It’s all worth it when you reach the hidden oasis. The most unique hike involved swimming across the Manning River and then changing into hiking gear to continue our walk to Manning Falls. 

And speaking of waterfalls. Whilst the unseasonal rainfall may have caused some travel upset, the falls were at their best with the sound of water roaring and cascading hundreds of metres down into the rivers below. It was the best of the wet in the dry!

We were disappointed that The Mitchell Falls and Windjana Gorge were still closed when we headed back to Derby but took it as a sign that the GRR is calling us back to visit again.